Virtual Salon

Fall’s hair trends – the ones ruling runways and red carpets – hark back to yesterday. Herewith the season’s sexiest revivals, the icons who originated them, and the stars wearing them now. Plus: how-to help from celebrity stylists. By Gina Way.

Center part.

The look. Angie Harmon’s hairstylist, Erin Anderson of N.Y.C., gave her client an updated version of Ali MacGrawn’s seventies ponytail, combining its sharp middle part with a slightly off-kilter, unstructured bun.

Who can wear it. Ideal for Harmon’s oval face, this severely parted, slicked-back do slim round jawlines. But it can also make long faces seem longer or emphasize asymmetry – in either case, an off-center part and looser look will be more flattering.

How to style it. With a comb, part damp hair down the middle (using the bridge of your nose as a guide), then blow-dry it straight with a cushion brush.
Pull hair into a low, tight ponytail just to the left of your neck, and mist with a shine-enhancing spray.
Back-comb the ponytail, wrap teased hair into a bun, and secure with bobby pins. Anderson also suggests loosening a few strands in the bun “so you can see the texture”. Slick down the front and sides of hair (everything but the bun itself) with a bit of pomade.

Side-swept bob.

The look. When Nicole Richie revived Faye Dunaway’s Bonnie and Clyde-era coif, the reality TV star instantly became an arbiter of chic. According to Richie’s hairstylist, Andy LeCompte, who works in L.A., the key to this sleek look is those swooping bangs. He razor-cut the ends, “creating almost invisible tapered layers, so hair appears to be one length”.

Who can wear it. This style is universally flattering, according to LeCompte, who suggests slightly longer locks if you have a round face. But avoid it entirely, he adds, if you find hair in your eyes annoying.

How to style. If you like Richie, have natural curls, apply a straightening serum while hair is still damp, then blow-dry straight. Once your hair is dry, use a flatiron to tame the ends and increase shine. With head upside down, spray dry shampoo throughout hair.

Glam finger waves.

The look. “These are definitely not beachy, bedhead waves,” says Jimmy Paul, a Bumble and Bumble stylist, of the Rita Hayworth – inspired mane he created for Tuleh’s fall N.Y.C., fashion show. “This forties-style curl is very groomed. It’s brushed and shiny, but the set is soft and sexy”.

Who can wear it. Your hair should be long, like Bollywood star Aishwaray Rai’s, suggests Paul, or at least shoulder-length. But very fine or straight locks will have a hard time holding the curl.

How to style it. Create a deep side part and comb a thickening spray through damp hair to provide curl-retailing texture.
Rub a dollop of leave-in conditioner over ends.
After blow-drying hair smooth, curl one-and-a-half-inch sections with a medium-barrel curling iron, wrapping each section down toward the neck. When curls cool, brush out to create a solid wave, then mist with medium-hold hairspray.

Gamine pixie.

The look. Natalie Portman’s cropped style is “reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn and Jean Seberg,” says Mark Townsend of N.Y.C., the actress’s hairstylist, who left her hair longer on top for “more versatility”.

Who can wear it. Surprisingly, this is “one of the highest-maintenance haircuts,” Townsend notes. “You need a trim every month or it loses its shape.” Women with round or square faces will also benefit from more length on the sides.

How to style it. To add oompth and tame any natural curls, apply mousse, then blow-dry hair while brushing it back from the face.
Rake a dab of styling cream through hair to create choppy texture.
Spritz hands with shine spray then tousle hair to add gloss.

Long bangs.

The look. “Jane Birkin and Penelope Tree were definitely inspirations,” notes L.A. stylist Chris McMillan, who cuts Selma Blair’s thick, wavy hair. He modernizes the mod do by styling it “not stick-straight, but with some natural softness.”

Who can wear it. “Almost anyone – with a few adjustments,” McMillian says. On Blair he opted for piecey fringe rather than a heavy, blunt-cut curtain, which tends to widen faces. Of course, seriously curly girls should pass on this do unless they don’t mind daily straightening.

How to style it. Comb a straightening gel thought damp hair. Blow-dry with a large round brush, straightening underlying layers but leaving those on top with a bit of wave for natural movement.
Pull bangs down with your fingers or a comb to straighten. To increase shine and smoothness, rub a few drops of anti-frizz serum through the ends.
Instead of hairspray (“too sticky and stiff for this look”), McMillan spritzes a wave spray on hand and runs them over the top layer of hair to control static.

Big hair.